Topo of the north face of Gramusat

The north face of the Tête de Gramusat, perhaps the best spot for ice climbing in France, by the density, beauty, exigency and length of the lines that are present here. To the left, there are lines of more than 500 meters of ice, yes I did say 500 meters. In the centre, it's just a fireworks display of columns, stalactites and endless drapes. On the right, there are only beautiful sacred monsters.

From your first visit you will be captivated by the size and steepness of the place. You will want to speed up on the approach because the desire is so great to go and fight with the ice. But which line to choose? That's the problem, they are all beautiful, they all have their stories, their exceptional pitches. Don't worry, whatever you choose, your day will be filled with happiness and your arms well pumped.

The last topo of the area dates back to 2005 and has finally been completely sold out. It should have been reprinted several years ago because a lot of new routes have been opened. Perhaps not profitable enough in view of the inexorable global warming which is reducing the season more and more. But I have a crazy desire to show you what it looks like, so I took advantage of the last few days, when the conditions were epic, to take a few shots when the face is in condition (before the thaw we are experiencing).

For you, here is the topo of the North face of the Gramusat Head:

• 1- Ice Pocalypse 100m - 4+ (?)
• 2- Happy Together 120m - 4 (?)
• 3- Au-delà des ombres 550m - grade 5 (P. Pellet et S. Rosso in january 1991)
• 4- Le dièdre 150m - grade 5 (A. et J. Alvarez in march 1996)
• 5- La directe des ombres 200m - grade 5 (C. Moulin et Weiss in january 1992)
• 6- Géronimo 550m - grade 5 (S. Angelucci et C. Moulin in february 1991)
• 7- Face de rat 50m - M7+ - grade 6 (C. Copier et JF. Etienne in march 2004)
• 8- Hasta la vista 80m - M8 - grade 6 (C. Copier et JF. Etienne in february 2002)
• 9- The end 100m - M8+ - grade 6+ (C. Copier et JF. Etienne in january 2004)
• 10- Dry fucking 120m - M6+ - grade 5 (C. Copier et JF. Etienne in january 2003)
• 11- Monopussy 170m - M7 - A0 - grade 5 (R. Borgis et P. Turin in january 1997)
• 12- Pour une poignée de glaçons 90m - M? - Grade 6 (V. Aumage et T. Clarasso in february 1999)
• 13- Lâche les chiens 180m - 7a - grade 5+ (C. Copier, JC. Perrier et P. Pellet in january 1999)
• 14- Doberman 200m - M7 - grade 7 (C. Moulin, T. Clarasso et J. Blanc-Gras in january 2000)
• 15- Déconnexion 180m - grade 6+ (R.Borgis et F. Allabert in january 2000)
• 16- Gramusat directe 320m - grade 6 (R. Clothier et F. Damilano in january 1991)
• 17- Blind Faith 300m - grade 6 (J. Lowe et T. Renault in january 1992)
• 18- Variante Franclay 45m - grade 6 (A. Frankin et L. Clay in january1998)
• 19- Le passage 40m - M6/M8 - grade 5+ (P. Pellet et JC. Perrier in january 1999)
• 20- Les moulins de mon coeur 300m - M9 - grade 6 (J. Mercader et P. Pellet in february 2005)
• 21- Over the top 120m - grade 7 (C. Moulin et J. Blanc-Gras en 1996)
• 22- Via Gramusat 170m - M6 - 7a - grade 6 ( R. Borgis et F. Allabert in january 2000)
• 23- Quartier nord 150m - M10 (C. Copier, P. Pellet, JC. Perrier et S. Foissac in december 1999)
• 24- Variante de sortie de Quartier nord 90m - grade 5+ (C. Copier, P. Pellet, JC. Perrier et S. Foissac in december 1999)
• 25- Nouvelle collection 30m - 7b+ - grade 6 (A. Lamiche in january 2000)
• 26- Central scrutinizer 300m - grade 6 (S. Angelucci et JJ. Lefevre in january 1994)
• 27- Variante de Central Scrutinizer 80m - 6b+ - grade 5 (?)
• 28- Collection automne-hiver 300m - 7b+ - M5+ - grade 6 (F. Degoulet et B. Guigonnet in january 2009)
• 29- Joe’s garage 300m - grade 6 (S. Angelucci et Gégé in january 1994)
• 30- Juste une illusion 300m - grade 6 (P. Allardin et F. Damilano in january 1991)
• 31- Ça tend vers l’illusion 280m - M7 - grade 5 (R. Borgis et F. Allabert in january 2000)
• 32- Tombe la chemise 80m - M6+ - grade 6 (C. Moulin, G. Sauget et J. Blanc-Gras in december 1999)
• 33- Sous le soleil de satan 300m - M7 - grade 6 (T. Clarasso, C. Moulin et M. Zalio in february 1995)
• 34- L’anguille 50m - grade 5+ (A. Guillaume et C. Ravier in february 2001)
• 35- Peace concept 50m - M4 - grade 5 ( F. Lombard et M. Pelissier in january 2000)
• 36- L’ensemble de Mandelbrot 300m - grade 6+ (P. Isoard et B. Ravanat in january 1992)
• 37- A trois c’est mieux 300m - M7 - A0 - grade 5 (F. Degoulet, J. Joly et B. Brochard in january 2015)
• 38- New Generation 300m - M7+ grade 6 (F. Degoulet et J. Joly in february 2012)
• 39- Vendredi 13 (Tracé incertain) 300m - 6a - M5+ - grade 6 (C. Moulin et J. Blanc-Gras in january 1999)
• 40- Lacelle qui reste 300m - grade 6 (G. Lacelle et JP. Mottin in january 1994)
• 41- Jeux de quilles 300m - grade 6 (P. Isoard et JC Lafaille in january 1994)
• 42- Variante Strike 300m - M6+ (C. Moulin et M. Bonniot in february 2013)

It has been 30 years since the adventure began on this north face, and the biggest names in mountaineering have passed through it. For me, this place is the perfect playground to
exercice before going mountaineering all over the world.

Take care and enjoy the climb.