The Mont Rose 4000 m summit traverse

Meet at the Petit Pont de Martigny car park at 6.30 a.m. The guide takes you in his vehicle to go to Täsch. In Täsch, a taxi takes us to Zermatt, access to the city is prohibited for private vehicles. We take the ski lifts to access the Klein Matterhorn and take our feet directly on the Matterhorngletscher around 3817 m.

The adventure begins smoothly with the easy ascent of the western summit of Breithorn, 4164 m. We then cross the large Verra glacier towards the refuge Guide d'Ayas. We will take the time to eat the pic nic along the way.

If we have time we can add the summit of Pollux, 4092 m, before joining the refuge.

Night in half board at the Guide d'Ayas refuge, 3400 m.

D+ 500-800m / D- 700-1000m

Ascent of the Castor, 4223 m. The slope is more steep and the final ridge is narrow. This climb is one of the most aesthetic of the adventure.

We descend the eastern ridge of the Castorr to reach the Felik pass, then the Quintino Sella refuge 3585 m.

Lunch planned at the refuge.

Night at the refuge with half board.

D+ 850m / D- 650m

A gentle start on the Felik glacier then the Lys glacier to reach the bottom of the Naso du Lyskamm. Two choices depending on the level and the desire of the team. The Naso du Lyskamm, 4272m or the Lyskamm Est, 4533 m, by its southern ridge (more technical and aerial).

After descending from one of the two peaks we reach the Gnifetti refuge, 3625 m. Pic nic on the way.

Night in half board at the refuge

D + 700-1000m / D- 650-900m

A long day and a 4000 meter peak harvest on the day's program.

We start with the Vincent Pyramid, 4215 m. From the summit we can go back and forth to add the summit of Pointe Giordani, 4046 m. We continue on the Corno Nero, 4321 m, then the Lüdwighöhe, 4342 m, nearby. We still have the Pointe Parrot, 4434 m and the Signalkuppe, 4553 m, which is also the location of the highest refuge in the Alps, the Margherita hut. Pic nic on the way.

Night in half board at the refuge

D + 1200m / D- 250m

Still a long day, first we climb the last 4000 meter of the program, the Zumsteinspitze, 4562 m, which offers a breathtaking view of the northeast face of Mont Rose. We are almost at the top of the Mont Rose range, we must now descend to civilization. This descent on the Grenz glacier is littered with crevasses and the scenery is fantastic. We will be able to admire in particular the north face of Lyskamm and its hanging seracs. Short break at the Mont Rose hut for lunch, then we have to leave to retrieve the Gornergrat train. From the Rotenboden station, we board the train which brings us directly to Zermatt next to the train station. We take a taxi to take us back to the parking lot in Täsch, then the guide takes you back to Martigny.

We separate around 17-18h00.

D + 250m / D- 2000m